Figure 1.26: A program crash.
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A computer is rather like a car: it should continue working for a decade or more, but it can do so only if you help it along by correctly caring for it and performing regular maintenance tasks. This section will show you how to keep your computer in perfect working order.
Occassionally, data is written to the hard drive incorrectly. These errors can damage the hard drive or your files. Often, these errors are caused by improperly shutting down the computer.
Floppy disks, too, can become corrupted, making it impossible to open certain files. If a particular floppy disk is giving you problems, try scanning it for errors.
Windows has a scanner utility that can help recover files from these corrupted sectors of your hard drive. Damaged areas can be detected and fixed easily.
Select Start > Programs > Accessories > System Tools > ScanDisk. Select the drive you want to scan from the list of drives (usually C:). Make sure that the Automatically Fix Errors and Surface Scan checkboxes are checked, and then click Start. The scan will take 30 minutes or more to run, but may take longer if you have a large hard drive.
Unfortunately, Windows or other programs access the hard drive rather frequently, and this disrupts ScanDisk, forcing it to start over. You'll know this is happening if ScanDisk reports, "ScanDisk has restarted 10 or more times..." You may get better results using the DOS-based ScanDisk tool. It is covered more fully in Appendix B.
Bring up the Properties dialog for C: from My Computer, and click the Tools tab. In the Error-checking box, click the Check Now button. Check both "Automatically fix file system errors" and "Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors." Now click "Start."
The Windows 2000 and XP scanners are afflicted by the same problem as 9x versions, as described above. However, Microsoft devised a solution this time around. Before the scan runs, Windows checks and sees if the scan might be interrupted. If so, then you'll be asked if you want to schedule a scan to run the next time Windows boots up. If you say yes, then the scan will start right after Windows starts (before the login screen appears). At this time, there are no other programs or services running, so the scan can continue unhindered.
Hard disks set up to run under Windows periodically become fragmented, which causes the computer to be slower and more ineffecient. You need to defragment your computer periodically to ensure that it remains as fast as possible.
CAUTION
Hard drives will not correctly defragment if there are errors on the hard drive. Check the drive for errors (see above) before attempting to defragment.
On a defagmented hard drive, all of the files are located at the beginning (center) of the hard drive, and the free space is located toward the edges. However, when a file gets deleted, it leaves a free space in the space it occupied - the surrounding data does not "close up" the hole. Of course, none of this is visible to you - we're talking about where the file is physically written on the disk - no matter where the holes in the data are, My Computer decodes and displays the files precisely the same.
When you are writing a file to disk, it gets stored in the first availiable space. The problem is, if the hole is smaller than the file you're saving, the file has to get split into two or more parts. For instance, the first free space is 500 KB in size and you're trying to write a file that's 1 MB in size. In this case, 500 KB of the file would end up in the first space, and the other 500 KB would either go into the next space or get split up further into more fragments. Windows keeps track of which data goes with which file, so it can still be opened, but this file scattered across the disk takes longer to access than if the data was contiguous (not fragmented).
When you defragment the hard drive, the data on it is re-arranged so that the files are not fragmented. As a result, the computer will run a little bit faster.
To defragment your hard drive under Windows 95/98/ME, go to Start > Programs > Accessories > System Tools > Disk Defrgmenter. Select the hard drive to defragment (usually C:) and click OK. Wait for the hard disk to defragment - it will about an hour.
Bring up the Properties dialog for C: as shown above, and go to the Tools tab. Under Defragment, click Defragment Now. Next, in the Disk Defragmenter window, select which hard drive to defragment (normally C:), and click Analyze. Defragmenter will now evaluate the hard drive to see whether the drive needs to be defragmented. If 25% of the files on the hard drive are fragmented, Defragmenter recommends that you defragment this drive. Click Defragment, and the defragmentation will begin. It will take about an hour.
Just the name virus implies something sinister about these threats to your sanity. And it's true - getting a virus could wipe out your data and leave you with a mindless box that simply responds Operating system not found. Your computer is pretty much toast. The computer virus and the real-life virus operate in the same way: they infect, replicate, deploy, and destroy.
A virus is simply a program that has been written for the sole purpose of causing you as much hardship as possible. The symptoms vary according to the virus-assembler. Some viruses may change the font size so small that nothing is readable. They may erratically delete programs and files at random, which makes it difficult to detect - you probably won't know what's happening until you lose an important file. Others format (wipe out) your hard drive, and you have to call the local nerd to come out and reinstall your operating system and programs. If you don't have a backup, you're screwed.
The dangerous viruses have ways of replicating themselves. By far, the most common scheme is through e-mail. The virus will e-mail itself to anyone and everyone listed in your contact list or address book, so all of your friends become infected too. Nearly all viruses come through the Internet in one way or another - so it is important to keep a scanner on hand at all times.
Windows does not come packaged with a virus scanner - so you will have to do some looking around on the Web to find a suitable scanner. Grisoft offers a free version of its AVG Anti-Virus for personal use - businesses may not use it. You can get it online here. Other popular options include McAfee VirusScan and Symantec's Norton AntiVirus, which both cost less than $30.
Since new viruses emerge constantly, you have to update the virus definition files for your scanner on a regular basis. The definition files tell the scanner what is a virus and what isn't. New updates are usually released anywhere from every week to once a month, depending on how many new viruses are discovered. AVG will automatically check for updates whenever you check your e-mail.
CAUTION
Many commercial scanners (including Norton AntiVirus) require you to purchase a yearly subscription to the definition updates.
Many anti-viruses include lots of interesting features, including automatic definition updating, automatic scanning of e-mail as it comes in, the ability to scan floppy disks and CDs, and specifying single folders and files to scan. However, since the exact sequence of steps used are different for each type of anti-virus, I can't give you a step-by-step procedure. Most are easy enough to figure out though. If you get lost, you can always read the program's help documentation.
The techniques for fighting and scanning for spyware are similar to that of viruses, but when you look closer, you'll see that spyware is an entirely different animal. Spyware are programs that are designed to collect your personal information. The spyware then reports the info back to its maker. The ways they may do this vary. For instance, some spyware transmits system logs of where you've been on the Internet. Others may seek out names, e-mail addresses, bank account and charge card numbers, and more. Some even record what you see on the screen and send that back home.
CAUTION
As I'm sure you can imagine, it's a bad thing when this personal information falls into the wrong hands. Whereas viruses can ruin your computer, spyware can ruin your life. It only takes one spyware-assembler to get hold of your credit card number, and your card can get maxed out and your credit report is ruined. You could be out thousands of dollars if you can't get the person responsible caught. However, recovering from a financial disaster is not on-topic, but there are other resources on the Internet dedicated to just that.
Another problem with spyware is the fact that it's constantly running in the background without your knowledge or consent. Of course, even though you can't see it, your computer still has to process it. Do you see where this is headed? If the computer is working on the spyware's demands, it can't devote its full attention to it's most important component (the user). Besides, spyware is often slung together carelessly, so they often waste memory, slowing down your computer even more.
How does spyware get on your computer? Often, it's foisted onto your hard drive from unscrupulous websites. It can also get installed with programs that you download from the Internet. In either case, the only real tipoff is a small slowdown in processing. Constant scanning is your only defense.
New spyware is evolving even more rapidly than the viruses! So, spyware-scanners also rely on definition files, which need to be updated periodically as well.
There are three leading scanners for spyware:
* = CAUTION
AntiSpyware is still a beta-test version, which means that it has been tested enough (the alpha tests) by the Microsoft developers, and is still being tested by others in the community (beta-tests). Beta versions are often unstable, as they have been released for testing purposes only - not serious use. As such, you are expected to report to Microsoft if you find a problem with the program - only experienced users are usually able to give reports that are in-depth enough for Microsoft developers to fix. You may want to wish to hold off a while with AntiSpyware, and wait for the final version.
Another thing is that we're just not sure what Microsoft intends to do with AntiSpyware. It may very well become a standard Windows Longhorn utility - or perhaps they are planning to charge for it as a separate application. I urge you to wait before downloading AntiSpyware for just a while. Read around, and when we get an idea of just what direction Bill Gates is headed, then make your decision as to whether you want to use AntiSpyware. You wouldn't want to get used to it, and then have to pay $20 for the stable version. Beware!
With that long warning in mind, we'll stick to using the other two programs on the list. Spybot-S&D is my personal favorite, because it reminds me of something I'd write. But I use Ad-Aware too, because it tends to catch things that Spybot misses - and vice-versa. I'll run you through the Spybot procedure, and you should be able to figure out how to use Ad-Aware - as always, look at the Help file if you get lost.
Bring up Spybot-S&D; the default installation folder is Start > Programs > Spybot-Search & Destroy > Spybot-Search and Destroy. Now, check for updated definition files by clicking "Search for Updates." If there are any updates, Spybot will tell you and ask you whether to download and install them. Say "Yes." After the updates have been successfully installed, click "Search & Destroy" on the left part of the screen, then click "Check for Problems" and wait for the scan to finish. Any problems that exist will be displayed to you, along with a brief explanation of the problem. Select them all (click their checkboxes) and click "Fix." The spyware will then be removed from your computer.
NOTE
Spybot often displays an entry called "DSO Exploit". This is normal; it alerts you to a security hole in Internet Explorer. There is not a solution to this, so don't worry about it.
Spybot also allows you to immunize your computer against future spyware installation. You can be shown a message saying, "Spybot blocked the download of `ReallyBadSpyWare'!" This can get annoying, however - so you can turn it off from the Immunize page. To immunize, click the Immunize button on the left edge of the screen. Spybot will compare any current immunization against the new definitions to see if you need to need to immunize against new spyware, and tell you this. If you need to, click Immunize and Spybot will begin immunizing your computer.
There's much more to Spybot - so I recommend playing around with it to discover how to use its other features. I've only showed you the basics. It has the virtue of being extraordinarily easy to use, so you can probably become a Spybot expert in only a few minutes.
CAUTION
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CAUTION
You REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY need to read this part! Not having a backup copy when you need one can be such intense pain. You probably can't afford to lose some of the files in My Documents, so keep a backup copy of everything at all times, or you'll regret it...
Creating a backup is so simple I can't fathom why anyone would neglect doing it. Making a backup is easiest if you have a CD-burner or some other form of removable media that can hold a lot of space. If you don't have a CD-burner, you can use floppy disks (as long as none of your files take up more than 1.44 meg). Make sure that you have enough storage space for all of your data!
A backup is simply a copy of your work stored on removable media. Then, if your hard drive fails or you get a virus, snap! and you have it back. I recommend making a backup copy at least once a month. If you are planning on doing something risky (like upgrading or reinstalling your OS), make a backup copy first. If anything goes wrong, you are protected.
Burn everything to a CD-R (they are more durable than the CD-RWs) and store it in a safe location. If you happen to have a safe-deposit box or fireproof safe, make another backup copy and put it in there. One of our neighbors lost their house to a fire and, picking through the rubble, found their backup CD, melted and totally useless. You can't have this happen to you.
If you can't fit everything to fit on your backup disk, consider using WinZip or WinRAR to compress your files into a smaller archive folder. More details in Appendix B.
The best way to avoid data loss is to prevent it before it happens. Here are some of the things you can do:
Save, save, and save again! Have a timer with you, and save every 15 or 20 minutes. If you just finished some long, intricate procedure or about to try something for the first time, save. This way, if you mess up royally then at least you can go back and recover your work. Also, if you click the wrong button, if your program just decides to crash on its own, or, somehow you manage to blue-screen Windows (ouch!), you can safely recover your work.
It is best to use very good, professionally made programs that are not prone to crashing or freezing up every few seconds. If you do decide to use a program that was made by your nephew or grandson at least ask him if he tested it for bugs.
The professional programs often contain data-loss fail-safes. Word is one of these programs, and so is my program, Denexa HyperPad. Every 5-10 minutes, the program will save a backup file. If the program does lock up and crash, just restart the computer and bring up the program again. After the program finishes loading - there's your file! Of course, the programs usually won't lock up right after it saves the backup, but at least your file isn't totally gone. Save the file and then re-commence working. I crashed Word one way or another several times while writing this book and had to recover my file five times.
NOTE
Sometimes the program will ask you if you want to attempt to recover a file. If it does, pick yes.
Remember the classic joke about the man who went to the doctor? "It hurts when I raise my arm!" "Then don't raise your arm!" If you notice the program crashes every time you click a certain button, don't click that button!
When you delete a file from My Computer, it isn't gone. It goes to a temporary storage space called the Recycle Bin. You can review the contents of the Recycle Bin by double clicking the Recycle Bin icon on the Desktop. This way, you can easily recover a file that you accidentally deleted.
To restore a file to its original location from the Recycle Bin, click the file in the Recycle Bin, and select File > Restore or look at the left edge of the screen and click "Restore."
If you want to completely remove a file (or all the files) from the Recycle Bin, and consequently remove them from the computer, select the file and hit DELETE. A dialog appears. "Are you sure you want to delete [file name]?" To delete all the files, select File > Empty Recycle Bin. A dialog appears. "Are you sure you want to delete these [number of files] files?"
CAUTION
If you click Yes, the file will be permanently and irreversibly destroyed!
CAUTION
Files deleted from removable media such as floppy disks are not sent to the Recycle Bin, but are permanently and irreversibly destroyed!
An interesting sidebar: the Recycle Bin has helped quite a few criminal investigators through the years. A serial killer writes a diary chronicling his crimes and then deletes it - but the investigators find it later, sitting in the Recycle Bin.
If you feel unsure about a file, restore it and look at it before emptying the Recycle Bin. After all, you might need it.
Emptying the Recycle Bin is a good way to reclaim disk space and speed up the operation of your computer.
When a program starts functioning badly and erratically using disk space, Windows assumes there is a problem and shuts the program down. You see a dialog that says, "This program has performed an illegal operation and will be shut down," on Win9x and the dialog below in WinXP. When this happens, well, there goes all your work. There's nothing you can do. Resistance is futile. Hope you saved it.
Figure 1.26: A program crash.
NOTE
You'll notice that the dialog is actually asking for your permission to send Microsoft a pre-generated bug report. I recommend that you send the report when it is a Microsoft product that is malfunctioning, and don't send it if you are using a third-party application.
There is another situation that occurs occasionally. When a computer is loading something, you'll hear a clicking noise, the C: activity light flashes, and the pointer changes to an hourglass. If the pointer is an hourglass, but nothing else is happening, and the program is not responding to you (clicking menus, pushing buttons, and nothing happens), or the cursor won't move at all, we say it is locked up or frozen up. Several things may cause this. One may be a lack of space. Another may be what a programmer would call an infinite loop, where the program is forced to do the same thing over and over again and won't stop.
In any case, you may want to wait for a while to see if the program is actually loading anything, or if it is locked up. If you wait for a long time and it isn't responding, press CTRL + ALT + DELETE. The Task Manager box pops up. Select the errant program from the list, and click "End Task." Most times, Windows won't be able to nicely tell it to shut down. Windows reports back to you, informing you that the program isn't responding and asking you if you want it to be shut down anyway.
NOTE
As the Close Program dialog box indicates, pressing CTRL + ALT + DELETE again restarts the computer and you lose all unsaved work.
Sometimes CTRL + ALT + DELETE doesn't work. The whole computer, instead of just one program, has frozen up. In this case, the best thing to do is restart the computer by pushing the power button (to turn it off) and pushing it again (to turn it back on again).
NOTE
Some computers have a RESET button on the front of the tower that restarts the computer.
When the worst happens, a blue screen containing confusing messages appears. This is also known as The Blue Screen of Death!!! Read it carefully, or, better yet, write it down and give it to a computer expert to analyze. If you aren't using your own computer, give it to the owner of the computer, or librarian.
The Windows 2000/XP systems have been engineered to be more reliable and less crash-prone than the old Win9x systems, in part due to the WinME fiasco. You'll notice that they don't lock up or blue-screen near as much as the older systems. This stability is many people's incentive to upgrade their 9x systems to the newer NT-based systems.
The very worst thing that could happen to your data is a hardware failure, such as hard drive failure. This may be the problem if the screen displays "DISK BOOT FAILURE" or just locks up at the Desktop. What's happening is Windows, stored on the hard drive, can't be accessed.
Your computer isn't ruined if the hard drive fails; it can be replaced. However, the same may not be true for your data. If it's valuable, you could be in a bind. Hope you have a backup copy!
While working on Section 2-6 of this book, I had the unfortunate experience of experiencing a hard drive failure. Luckily, one of my dad's friends not only replaced my hard drive, but recovered my data, and he gave me a scanner too! And all he wanted in return was $45, some airplane tires, and his airplane washed! It really pays to know someone like this, which leads us to the next heading...
Talk to your friends and see if they - or their spouse or friend or nephew or whatever - is a computer expert. They can help with advanced computer issues, especially with hardware problems and when your computer is acting really weird. You can also look in the phone book for professionals that will come and try to fix your problem. They will charge a fee for this.
If you have a computer problem, don't hesitate to e-mail me at scott5114<at>gmail.com. Replace the <at> in the e-mail address with the "@" symbol - more on why I did this in the e-mail section. I'll try to help, but I can't guarantee anything!
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